Worth the Wait!

I know, I know. It's been a long time. Many the time I've thought, "I really need to go blog this recipe," only to get carried away with other busyness until it just doesn't happen. However, tonight's dinner, Almost Tarascan Bean Soup, was one of those, "I really have to blog this--right NOW!" kinds of meals. If nothing else, it's beautiful. Who doesn't want to get out a spoon and dig in to this on a cold winter night?



Second, it is a great showcase for Rancho Gordo cranberry beans. For whatever reason, it has been taking me forever to get beans cooked to doneness, but I do not hold the fact that I was up until 2 a.m. making this sound against it. Not at all. I really should have known better, the way bean cooking has been going. However, this made a good-sized batch of soup, much more than the 4 servings the recipe states. This would be dead simple to double up and keep in the freezer, and the garnishing steps take only minutes on the night you want to serve it.

While the beans were simmering, plump Roma tomatoes were halved and cooked on heavy foil in a skillet, and turned several times until they began to char. Half an onion was sliced thinly, garlic was minced, and they were sauteed, along with the cooked, chopped tomatoes, until thick and jammy. This mixture is then set aside until the beans are tender. An immersion blender made quick work of the pureeing step. At that point, since we were not up for an early breakfast, I put the soup in the refrigerator, which allowed the flavors time to meld and deepen.

When it was time to eat, I spent the few minutes it took to warm the soup to quickly fry some very thin tortilla strips and thinly sliced ancho chile strips. That's right--fried dried chiles. I was skeptical, but the deep, almost fruity taste of the chiles was an amazing offset to the more staid basic soup. These two items topped the soup that was ladled into the bowls, along with sour cream, queso fresco, and some chopped cilantro. Next time, I'll try to have a lime on hand, as I think the acid would add one more layer of flavor and brightness to the finished dish. Served with warm chips and guacamole on the side, this was a memorable meal that I look forward to having again.

Somewhat Tarascan Bean Soup

Copyright: Heirloom Beans by Steve Sando (Rancho Gordo Beans)

Somewhat Tarascan Bean Soup

1 pound plum tomatoes, halved
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 white onion, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 cups cooked cranberry beans in their broth
3 to 4 cups vegetable broth (my modification; the original calls for chicken broth)
1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
Salt


Safflower oil for frying
2 day-old corn tortillas, cut into thin strips
2 ancho chiles, seeded and cut into narrow strips
1/2 cup queso fresco or other mild, moist white cheese
Sour cream for serving
Fresh cilantro leaves for serving

Line a large, heavy skillet with aluminum foil. Set over medium-high heat. Put the tomatoes cut side down in the pan and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until blackened and soft, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the tomatoes from the pan and chop. Set aside.

Remove the foil from the skillet and discard. In the skillet over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil. Add the onion, garlic, and tomatoes and saute until soft, about 10 minutes. Let cool slightly. Put the vegetables into a blender and blend until smooth. Transfer to a soup pot.

Puree the beans and their broth in the blender, adding some of the broth if necessary to keep the blades moving. Transfer to the put. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes.

Add the broth and oregano and season with salt. Cook for 10 minutes to allow the flavors to blend.

Meanwhile, pour the safflower oil to a depth of about 1/2 inch into a small, heavy skillet. Set over medium-high heat and heat the oil until it is shimmering. Fry the tortilla strips, turning with tongs, until crisp and medium brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove to paper towels to drain. Fry the ancho chile strips until they puff up and emit a spicy aroma, 2 or 3 seconds. Remove quickly as they can become bitter if overcooked.

Put a little cheese, a few chile strips, and some tortilla strips in each warmed bowl. Pour in the hot soup. Pass the sour cream and cilantro at the table for garnishing the soup.

(My notes: I combined the cooked onions, garlic, and tomatoes with the beans and used an immersion blender on them. It worked perfectly with MUCH less mess than dragging out a blender or food processer.)

This soup was discussed here.